Visit Hecla, an Icelandic fishing village on the coast of Lake Winnipeg

It’s hard to imagine a place that feels more rugged and remote than Hecla, with its limestone cliffs and crashing waves; yet this former fishing outport is just a two-hour drive north of Winnipeg.

Today, while it remains a picturesque fishing village, the village and surrounding area is also popular year-round with visitors drawn by the white sandy beaches, hiking and cycling trails, birding and wildlife viewing opportunities, fishing, cross-country skiing, snowshoeing and the amenities of a resort that offers a championship 18-hole golf course, waterpark, spa and conference centre.

The limestone cliffs and windswept shores of Lake Winnipeg near Hecla

Once remote, Hecla has become a year-round vacation destination, with hiking and cross-country ski trails, camping, seasonal cabins to rent, a marina and all of wild and beautiful Grindstone-Hecla Provincial Park to explore.

This is a family vacation destination – lively in summer, only a bit less so in winter, quiet in spring and fall. My favourite time is October, when the boreal forest has turned to gold with touches of deep red and orange and out on the hiking trails you have the feeling that it’s only you and the trees. It’s also a time when the resort is quieter; a lovely place for a wellness retreat or a couples escape weekend.

Begin by exploring the village

Icelandic settler's house, now a museum, in Hecla

In summer, there are lots of activities -- guided tours and nature walks, campfire talks and commercial fishing demonstrations and this includes interesting tours of Hecla Village. The heritage sites are open only in summer. Hecla School has one classroom set up to show what it was like to be a student here, decades ago. Continue on to the Ice House Museum, the display of fishing vessels and the General Store and Sigurgeirsson house (home of one of the first Icelandic settlers and a boat-builder, coffin-maker and the village postmaster). It has been restored by a volunteer group to the way it was in the 1920s.

The ice house, school, church, grocery store and community hall are all are well-signed and you can see everything in about half an hour. Stop first at the Fish Station/Hecla government dock to look at the tour map and pick up a brochure.

More things to do

Hike to the Wildlife Viewing Tower at dusk for a spectacular view of the island and you may also spot deer or a moose.

Search for fossils. At points along the shore of Hecla Island, great chunks of limestone have been broken away by the crashing waves of Lake Winnipeg, and there you might find fossils of creatures who once lived in ancient Lake Agassiz. One of the best places to look is along the western shore, where you might have to scramble down the cliff, but that makes these beaches less busy (sometimes even completely deserted) and is also the best place to see spectacular sunsets in summer.

Enjoy a bike ride! Hecla Island has kilometers of paved bike trails, mostly following the shore and all of it scenic.

Go fishing! for pickerel. Best spots are off the dock at either Gull Harbour or Hecla or from the old ferry dock. Go ice-fishing in winter – ice shacks have woodstoves but otherwise are pretty basic (take something to sit on).

Sea-kayak to Black Island, Deer Island and along the mainland to see pelicans, a heron rookery and the beautiful Kasakeemeemisekak Islands.

More fun for kids: Hiking, cycling, swimming, playgrounds, campfires, and a junior naturalist program (opens in new window).

More outdoors activities are tennis, golf, boating, birding, spotting and taking pictures of owls, deer, pelicans, hawks and perhaps even a black bear, a fitness trail, and, in winter, cross-country skiing, snowmobiling, shoeshoeing and skating.

Where to eat

Pickerel and chips at Rok at the Radisson in Hecla

Hecla offers limited eating-out choices. In summer, there is a marina restaurant and concession stand (for ice cream) at Gull Harbour and some take-out options at Hecla grocery store.

There are two restaurants open year-round at Radisson Hecla Oasis. Rok is a café, serving breakfast, lunch ($10 to $20) and dinners (entrees are $15 to $20) with a mixed menu and some local fare, such as bison burgers and pickerel and chips (I took this photo of what you get – snazzy presentation, but small portions). Get a seat next to the fireplace in winter – or next to the window and a lovely view toward the lake the rest of the year.

There is fancier fare, with more emphasis on local produce at L’Enoteca, open evenings for fine dining. You can also order custom cakes for delivery.

Drive off the island and south to the village of Riverton for lunch at Doreen’s (on Main Street), a cozy little place with good fish and chips.

Where to stay

Wilderness camping. Find out about designated backcountry campsites at Hecla/Grindstone Provincial Park office (at the part entrance). If you are sea kayaking or sailing, you can also camp on the main beach on Black Island (with permission from Hollow Water First Nation).

Family camping at Hecla/Grindstone Provincial Park or nearby at Hnausa Provincial Park. You can make your campsite reservation online. (opens in new window).

Rent a cottage for just $30 to $45 per night, though you will need to bring your own bedding, pots, pans and dishes. Two cabins are accessible to people using wheelchairs. Reserve through Manitoba Parks (opens in new window)or by calling 1-888-482-2267 (or 948-3333 if you’re calling from Winnipeg).

Stay in an Icelandic home at Solmundon Gesta Hus Bed and Breakfast in Hecla. Lakeview rooms, outdoor hot tub, dinners available and the host is a commercial fisher with tales to tell; $65 to $90 per night. (204) 279-2088.

Or a wilderness luxury resort at Radisson Hecla Oasis. Mineral spa, fitness centre, indoor/outdoor water park, beach, 18-hole championship golf, walking and hiking trails, summer adventure programs led by a biologist and 90 contemporary guest rooms where pets are also welcome. True relaxation in the midst of nature. One of the things I particularly like is that although this is a family resort (with lots to do for all ages) one of the pools and a hot-tub are designated adults-only, so if you want to swim in peace, you can. Rooms are $189 to $309 per night; there are also guesthouses for $300 to $450 per night, as well as seasonal, golf, wellness, girls’ getaway and romance packages and other specials (ask when you book).

Real Estate

Until recently, you had to be a winner in Manitoba’s cottage lottery in order to be able to buy a lot and build your cottage here. It was either that or buy a home in Hecla, and it’s rare that one of these is up for sale.

But now, Radisson is selling lakeside and fairway vacation lots that will include use of resort amenities, starting at $125,000. They are also developing condo villas that will each have two bedrooms and include use of the resort’s gym, waterpark, steam room, and other amenities. These are time-shares, with each owner getting one week per season every year (1/13 fractional ownership) for $39,500 and up.

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