Narcisse snakes - a natural wonder

You may have seen a garter snake sunning itself on a rock, or rapidly retreating (from you) in the garden.

But until you've seen the Narcisse snakes, you might not have ever given any thought to where and how these small snakes survive.

In fact, in one place, not far from Winnipeg, you can see the bizarre mating ritual of red-sided garter snakes, a natural wonder.

Come to Manitoba in late April or early May and you have the opportunity to see the largest number of snakes that can be viewed anywhere in the world.

This might be a sight straight out of your most feverish nightmares, and is definitely not for the overly-imaginative (or squeamish).

But it is fascinating for anyone interested in the wonders of the natural world.

Their mating ritual is repeated each spring as red-sided garter snakes in the thousands emerge from their winter underground homes in rural Manitoba, north of Winnipeg.

The sight of so many snakes draws crowds of the curious as well as naturalists and other scientists.

It is a (perhaps equally bizarre) Mother’s Day tradition among Winnipeggers to take your kids (or your mum) to see the Narcisse snakes.

Narcisse snakes - what you’ll see

Red-sided garter snakes in the thousands at four dens, which can be viewed up close from observation decks built above the rock opening to the underground dens.

Males are the first to emerge from hibernation in their limestone caves. They hang about near the cave entrances like thousands of stage-door Johnnies, not-so-patiently waiting for the appearance of the femmes fatales, the much larger female red-sided garter snakes.

One small place; thousands of single-minded snakes and the result is great roiling tangled snake balls, an awesome and unique sight.

Following the mating dance, the snakes disperse, each heading to its own summer hunting range where the one thing on their mind is the hunt for food. They eat only in summer.

Females give birth to between 13 and 86 live young late in July or early in August.

Garter snakes are absentee parents, leaving the finger-sized young to learn how to hunt for insects and survive on their own.

All females and adult males return to the dens in the fall, but males younger than two years do not. These young males also hibernate underground, but solo.

While the snakes perform their mating dance for only about three weeks in spring, you can see them (less dramatically) congregate at the dens in September.

Why do the Narcisse snakes gather here?

This odd ritual is a learned behaviour and, considering that this area (and much of Manitoba) was submerged under a vast glacial lake until about 8,500 years ago, garter snakes on the Plains is something that evolved relatively recently.

Where did these snakes come from? Why did they come here, to what is a harsh environment for most non-native creatures (one exception that now thrives here is whitetail deer, who also immigrated after the water receded)? How did the first snakes discover the limestone caves? What abilities allow the snakes to return to the same den each year? Is this similar to bird migration?

These are questions biologists can’t answer, at least not yet.

But somehow, the snakes came here after the ancient glacial lake broke free of its northern ice dam, spilling into the Arctic Ocean. Remnants of this vast inland lake are Lake Winnipeg to the east of the Interlake and Lakes Manitoba, Winnipegosis and Cedar Lake to the west of the Interlake.

Immigrant snakes found the limestone caves below the frost line and flourished as a result of winter protection in an environment that otherwise would not have allowed them to survive.

Garter snakes do not bite (there are no poisonous snakes in Manitoba) and are safe to handle.

The Narcisse Wildlife Management Area is open year-round for wildlife viewing, picnics, hiking and snowshoeing.

What else is there to see?

When the snakes appear, so do other creatures they eat as well as those that eat the snakes. The huge nests made of twigs in the trees belong to crows, who are very fond of snake fingerlings.

You may also spot frogs, owls, ravens, hawks, foxes, coyotes, raccoons, skunks, mink, weasels and ground squirrels as you hike the trails here.

Interpretation staff from Manitoba Conservation are on-hand on weekends to answer questions and you can also get close to one of the male snakes (if you want to).

Admission and parking are free.

How to get to Narcisse snakes’ pits

About a 90-minute drive northwest of Winnipeg, or almost directly west of the Icelandic town of Gimli Manitoba.

From the north Perimeter Highway, take the exit for Highway 7 (North), turning left at Teulon onto Highway 17 (a good place to stop for ice cream).

You’ll pass through the village of Inwood. Stop at the town’s park to see the huge statue of garter snakes and you may see male garters emerging from the base of the statue. This is a truly functional public art, providing a winter home for the creatures it celebrates.

Near Narcisse, you’ll see signs leading to the Narcisse Wildlife Management Area’s parking lot.

More information: (204) 945-6784.